A Local’s Guide to Lisbon: Traditional Food, Hidden Gems & Neighborhood Spots

Lisbon has become one of Europe’s hottest tourist destinations, and the city has undergone something of a transformation in recent years, with a litany of new restaurants and cafes popping up catering to the growing population of tourists and digital nomads. But the Portuguese capital remains rooted in tradition—if you know where to look. Here is a guide to help you explore the more local side of Lisbon.

Zé da Mouraria

This restaurant, tucked away in the old Moorish quarter of Mouraria, is a mouthwateringly delicious place for a traditional Portuguese almoço (lunch). The place is always bustling with locals, so either make a reservation or be prepared to wait for a bit on the charming street outside. Once you get inside, you’ll be won over by the aromas as well as the lovely decoration, with tiled floors and walls filled with photos of singers of fado, the traditional musical style born in this neighborhood.

The food is fantastic, with a wide array of meat and fish dishes that come in hefty portions meant to be shared. Bifinhos ao alhinho (garlic steak) is a particular favorite, as well as their chouriço assado no carvão (charcoal-roasted sausage). Be sure to accompany them with arroz de coentros (cilantro rice) and batata frita (French fries). You’ll leave here feeling completely satisfied.

A Vida Portuguesa

Head north from Praça Martim Moniz to this lovely store dedicated to the saudade (nostalgia) of Portugal’s past. You’ll find handmade ceramics and jewelry as well as vintage candy, soaps, biscuits, and tins of sardines, all in their original packaging, serving as a living testament of the Portuguese way of life. The shop is a window into Portugal’s past, which can be increasingly hard to find in the city today.

This is the best place in the city to pick up authentic souvenirs to take home with you. A great one is a small ceramic andorinha (swallow), a national symbol of family, love, loyalty, and hope. Be sure to check out their new venture, Depozito, as well, located around the corner in an old foundry showcasing all manner of handmade crafts.

Café A Brasileira

Located on Rua Garrett in the heart of Chiado, the city’s luxury shopping district, this cafe was opened in 1905 by Adriano Telles, a Portuguese businessman who had lived in Brazil and married the daughter of a wealthy coffee planter in Minas Gerais. Telles wanted to bring the drink to his homeland, where it was relatively unknown at the time, so he established A Brasileira to import and sell Brazilian coffee. His business model involved giving out free cups of coffee with the purchase of a kilogram of beans, thereby introducing his customers to the wonders of the caffeinated beverage while also assuring them of the quality of his product.

With its ornate interior, privileged location, and first-rate coffee, the cafe became known as a meeting place for the intelligentsia of 1920s Lisbon, especially frequented by the legendary poet Fernando Pessoa, whose statue is seated at a table outside. Pessoa’s preferred order was an absinthe accompanied by a bica (Portuguese espresso) and a cigarette, while spending the afternoon reading and writing.

Pavilhão Chinês

This bar, on Rua Dom Pedro V, the main drag of the charming Bairro Alto, is a hidden gem. Ring the doorbell of this unassuming turn-of-the-century house, and you will enter what feels like an antiques store, replete with all kinds of collectibles and curiosities. Grab a drink and explore the different rooms, or post up in a comfy booth or on one of the pool tables.

For a bite to eat before or after, check out Faz Frio across the street for classic Portuguese fare. Bairro Alto and Príncipe Real are two of the nicest neighborhoods in Lisbon, so be sure to take a stroll along the side streets past lovely gardens and beautiful 19th-century mansions. Stick your head into Livraria da Travessa as well, a fabulous bookstore originally from Rio de Janeiro.

Fábrica de Nata

There are tons of bakeries around Lisbon selling pasteis de nata, the delicious egg custard tart that is an icon of Portuguese cuisine. The pastry was originally created by monks at the monastery of Belém, but this spot, on Praça dos Restauradores, is a great place to load up in the city center. They are best enjoyed hot, with a sprinkle of cinnamon on top from one of the shakers on the counter.

Costa da Caparica

While tourists usually flock to Cascais for a day at the beach, you are better off following the locals across the river to Caparica. This long stretch of sand has various beaches to swim and relax and is also a famous spot for surfing.

Looking for more tips on what to see and do around the city? Visit our Lisbon page here.