Hidden Gems of Rio's Centro

Often overlooked in favor of the swanky beaches of the Zona Sul, Rio’s Centro has plenty of hidden gems to explore, and not just on rainy days. Its streets are filled with the history of centuries past, as long as you know where to look.

Confeitaria Colombo

The city’s most famous cafe, Colombo was founded in 1894 by a pair of Portuguese immigrants who sought to recreate one of Europe’s belle epoque cafes in their new land. Its interior is simply stunning, complete with stained glass windows, crystal mirrors, and Art Nouveau friezes. But the pastries are every bit as good as the decor: cakes and tarts abound, but the star of the show is the brigadeiro, a classic Brazilian dessert that is basically an unbelievably delicious ball of chocolate fudge.

The line for a table can be extremely long, so if you don’t mind taking your pastries to go, skip the line and just walk up to the register on the right hand side after you enter.

Casa Cavé

Just around the corner from Colombo is another of Rio’s most famous pastry shops. Cavé’s history dates back even farther to 1860, when it was opened by a French immigrant as Rio’s first patisserie. The beautiful interior and delicious pastries are still there more than 150 years later, and it maintains a more local air than the world-famous Colombo.

Real Gabinete Português de Leitura

Surely one of the world’s most beautiful libraries, the Real Gabinete contains the largest collection of Portuguese literature outside of the mother country. The institution was founded in 1837 by a group of Portuguese immigrants who sought to promote the culture of the former metropole in their new city, then the capital of the Empire of Brazil.

The building, whose facade is inspired by the famous Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Lisbon, is breathtaking both inside and out, with its architecture meant to evoke the Manueline style popular during the Portuguese Age of Discovery. The interior contains elaborately carved wooden bookcases from floor to ceiling, as well as a massive iron chandelier suspended from a gorgeous stained glass window. The library holds over 350,000 volumes in its collection, including various rare works from the 16th century.

Mosteiro de São Bento

The São Bento Monastery is a hidden refuge of tranquility in the midst of Rio’s bustling downtown. Founded in 1590 by Benedictine monks who came to Rio from Bahia in the country’s northeast, the monastery’s church is a fine example of Mannerist Portuguese colonial architecture. The monks who live at the abbey also run the Colégio de São Bento, considered one of Brazil’s most prestigious secondary schools. Make your way through the gate up the hill from the street to admire the architecture and to enjoy a moment of peace from the hubbub of downtown.

Pedra do Sal

Just north of Centro, in the neighborhood of Saúde at the foot of Morro da Conceição, is the legendary Pedra do Sal, which has played a key role in the history of Afro-Brazilians. Although originally the site of a large slave market, the area became home to a large community of Afro-Brazilians, with the first inhabitants being freed slaves who came from Bahia in the early 17th century in search of work, which was plentiful at the docks nearby. The Bahian population continued to grow in the following two centuries, so much so that the neighborhood began to be known by the moniker ‘Little Africa.’

Pedra do Sal is widely considered to be the birthplace of samba, the music and dance style that is one of Brazil’s most widely admired cultural treasures. Samba’s origins lie in Bahia, but it was forged here in the urban heart of Rio in the early 20th century by migrants from the northeast. Pedra do Sal has long hosted performances by acclaimed sambistas, and it continues to be a center of samba today, hosting some of Rio’s most active street parties to the tune of live music from the circle of musicians known as the roda de samba. The party happens on the weekends as well, but the most active day is actually Monday. The festivities start up around 8pm, and you’ll want to get there not much later than 9pm if you want to be close to the musicians.