A Guide to Modern Athens

Athens, one of the world’s oldest cities, is famous as the birthplace of Western civilization, with a recorded history spanning some three and a half millennia. But the Greek capital is also home to a vibrant culture, spoiled for choice with food, nightlife, and cultural activities. Most tourists come here for the ancient, but it would be a shame not to explore the modern as well. Here is a guide to help you explore the ‘new’ Athens.

Monastiraki Square

This neighborhood, in the heart of the city’s historic center, is a lively shopping area for tourists and locals alike. The square and its surrounding streets are a flea market during the day, while at night, it is a popular area for food and drink, with live music often played in the square as well. For a sit-down meal, I recommend Maiandros Restaurant, while for a souvlaki or gyro on the go, I would go to O Thanasis.

Souvlaki Kostas

A classic spot, run by the same family for three generations. The line to this small hole-in-the-wall will be out the door with locals and tourists, but it moves quickly; you can try to arrive on the earlier side to beat the lunch rush, as if you try to go later, they may have already sold out. They have different options for the meat in your sandwich, but the most traditional (and delicious) is pork.

Ariston

Another family-run operation, this bakery has been serving up delectable savory pastries since 1910. Just off Syntagma Square, this is a popular spot for locals; the preferred option is usually the tiropita (cheese pie), made with delightfully delicate phyllo dough. The pastries are all displayed in glass cases, so let your eyes be your guide.

Diporto

Located in the vicinity of Varvakeios Agora, the city’s bustling central market, this unassuming taverna can be a bit hard to find, located down a short flight of steps through open wooden cellar doors in a graffiti-covered building. Step inside, though, and you will be greeted by appealing aromas and the cool temperature of the stone basement lined with huge wine barrels.

This place, open since 1887, is a real blast from the past. There is no menu; rather, the mustachioed chef and owner will bring you a selection of classic Greek dishes—some mainstays include pan-fried sardines with lemon, chickpeas in a delicious broth, and Greek salad with feta. Your only choice will be whether or not to indulge in a pitcher of retsina, a traditional Greek white wine.

The atmosphere of this place is incredible, and it will surely be one of your most memorable meals in Athens. The restaurant has around a dozen tables, so if you show up alone or in a pair, you can expect to be seated with one or two other diners, which can make for a fun experience. Bring cash, and expect a great value meal. This is definitely a can’t-miss spot.

Avli

Also in the central market district, Avli’s entrance is no more than a narrow doorway leading down a long hallway to a back patio. Make your way down it, though, and you will be greeted by a delicious array of classic Greek dishes in a charming setting.

six d.o.g.s.

This bar also functions as a cultural center with concerts, art exhibits, and DJ sets in an alluring back garden. A great spot to start your night out.

Heteroclito

A popular wine bar with a selection of over 200 Greek wines, Heteroclito is located on a busy street close to the city’s main cathedral. Sit outside to soak up the atmosphere, and be sure to pair your wine with a local cheese plate.

Feyrouz

Feyrouz is a restaurant, bakery, and pastry shop offering Lebanese street food and snacks. Really delicious stuff all over the menu, and you won’t want to miss out on something sweet after your meal, too.

Falafellas

Excellent falafel spot, whether in a sandwich or a bowl. Crispy on the outside and soft and flavorful once you bite into it.

Little Tree Books and Coffee

An inviting bookstore and cafe located on the other side of the Acropolis from the main historic center. This is a lovely spot to enjoy a coffee in the shade of their outdoor patio and pick up something to read as well.

Takis Bakery

Around the corner from Little Tree, Takis is a third-generation bakery and a local favorite. Specialties include koulouri (a circular bread akin to a bagel from the northern city of Thessaloniki), bougatsa (phyllo dough filled with sweet semolina custard and topped with powdered sugar), and tiropita (cheese pie).