Granada Travel Guide: Alhambra, Albaicín, Sacromonte & Moorish History

Of all the cities in Spain, Granada is the one where you can most feel the legacy of the Muslims who ruled Iberia for nearly eight centuries.

After all, this was the last city on the Iberian peninsula to be reconquered by the Catholic Monarchs Fernando and Isabel, with their 1492 siege of the capital of the Emirate of Granada representing the final nail in the coffin for Al-Andalus.

Under the Nasrid dynasty (1232-1492), Granada flourished as an intellectual and cultural center, even as it faced the increasing threat of invasion from the north. When the Castilians finally arrived, they quickly set about Christianizing the city, but they maintained many of the Nasrids’ most impressive monuments as well as the urban layout of a large portion of the medieval city north of the Río Darro.

Granada is a stunningly beautiful city that offers a window into the past, when Spain was Al-Andalus, at the western edge of the Islamic world. Read on for a guide to exploring this wonderful city.

Alhambra

Sitting on top of a hill high above the city, with the Sierra Nevada mountains as its backdrop, the Alhambra is a jewel of Islamic architecture and one of the most visited monuments in Spain. Construction of this massive palace complex began in 1238, with subsequent expansions in the following centuries. After the Christian Reconquista, Fernando and Isabel established their royal court at the palace, while Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain, later added a large, Renaissance-style passage alongside the existing buildings.

In the days of the Nasrids, the Alhambra functioned as a royal city (medina), separate from the rest of Granada, with its own grand mosque, hammams, artisan workshops, and water supply. In addition to its defensive functions as a fortress, it also housed various palaces for different members of the royal family. These palaces, with their charming courtyards and elaborate decoration, are the chief attractions of the complex today.

Particular highlights of the palaces include the Patio de los Leones, with its intricate muqarnas above the walkways, and the Patio de los Arrayanes and Palacio del Partal with their lovely reflecting pools. Just beyond the palace walls, the Generalife was the Nasrids’ summer palace and country estate, with orchards of fruit trees and fabulous gardens with water features.

The Alhambra is one of the most popular sites in all of Spain, so it’s best to reserve your ticket well in advance. The best time is first thing in the morning, when you can have the palace (almost) all to yourself. The hill up to the palace from town is steep, so I recommend taking a bus on the way up and walking on the way down.

Albaicín

Directly across from the Alhambra, built into the hillside on the northern side of the Río Darro, the Albaicín forms the original residential core of Granada, developed beginning in the 13th century.

Though the neighborhood’s demographics changed considerably with the forced conversion and subsequent expulsion of Muslims under Christian Spain, the Albaicín retains its Moorish character to this day, with a medieval layout of narrow streets, small plazas, and modest houses built in Moorish and Andalusian style.

The Albaicín is quite frankly one of the world’s most charming neighborhoods. I recommend staying here during your time in Granada; even if you don’t, make sure you spend ample time wandering its streets and getting lost in the hidden world up here. For one of the best views in the city, stop by the Mirador de San Nicolás.

Sacromonte

Head east from the base of the Albaicín and you will arrive in Sacromonte, traditionally home to Granada’s Romani community, who arrived after the Christian reconquest of the city. Visually similar to the Albaicín, Sacromonte is well known for its whitewashed cave houses, built into the hillside by the Romani.

The area is one of several spots that claim to be the birthplace of flamenco, the world-famous Spanish music and dance form that originated with the gitanos of Andalucía. Some of these very same caves host flamenco performances today, in an experience that is about as traditional as it gets.

Be sure to check out the Abadía del Sacromonte at the eastern edge of the neighborhood, a 17th-century monastery built to venerate the site where a collection of ancient Christian religious texts (now widely considered to be forgeries) were discovered, supposedly confirming the Christian origin of the land. On your way back to town, stop at Bar Pibe for some traditional dishes from the area. I recommend trying the habichuelas, a hearty bean and pork stew, or, for the adventurous eaters among us, the famous tortilla del Sacromonte, a variation on the typical Spanish omelet with the addition of lamb or calf brains and testicles.

Catedral de Granada

The city’s cathedral is located in the heart of the Baroque city center. Built on the site of a former mosque, the building represents an interesting mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles.

Monasterio de San Jerónimo

This monastery, located northwest of the city center, was founded by the Catholic Monarchs Fernando and Isabel during their siege of the city. The complex is renowned for its architecture and is a great place for a quiet stroll around its cloisters and gardens.

Looking for tips on where to eat and drink in Granada? Click here.