With a history spanning nearly three thousand years, Rome has something remarkable around every corner. Its sights—the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon—are known the world over. But Rome is more than just ancient monuments. There is another city here, hiding in plain sight, that is often overlooked by the tourists who come for the ticketed attractions. This local’s guide will help you to, as the saying goes, do as the (modern) Romans do.