A Neighborhood Guide to Leblon, Rio de Janeiro

Leblon is Rio’s swankiest neighborhood, home to some of the priciest real estate in the city. But this isn’t a stuffy neighborhood reserved for the rich—far from it. Leblon is home to some of the city’s best nightlife, as well as a beautiful stretch of beach and a number of classic botecos where you can sit back and take in carioca life. Read on for a guide to some of the best spots to explore in Leblon, the beating heart of the Zona Sul.

Praia do Leblon

Leblon’s beach is arguably the best of the Zona Sul, offering relative calm compared to its more crowded and raucous neighbors Ipanema and Copacabana. You’ll still have your fair share of roaming vendors and crowds of umbrellas, but there is plenty of space to relax and enjoy the stunning view of the twin peaks of Dois Irmãos.

Rua Dias Ferreira

This long, curved street, running through the center of the neighborhood, is one of Rio’s most active nightlife spots, particularly on Friday nights.

The packed bars that line it spill out onto the sidewalks and into the street, stretching on for several blocks. You can try to squeeze your way into a bar or just grab your drink in a plastic cup and head out to the street. I recommend checking out Bar do Adão, Boteco Belmonte, Boteco Rainha, or Boteco Boa Praça.

Jobi

A staple of Leblon’s nightlife, this neighborhood institution has been open since 1956 and is always packed, early or late. If you visit in the afternoon, you can get a table and get some good food and snacks (I recommend their steak sandwiches and their bolinhas de queijo, fried cheese balls); later at night, just make your way to the crowded bar for a cold chopp (bar).

Bar Bracarense

Another neighborhood classic, opened in 1961 by a Portuguese immigrant paying homage to his hometown of Braga. The sandwiches here are top notch—I recommend the bracatudo, with juicy filet mignon steak, cheese, a fried egg, lettuce, and tomato. Be sure to try some of their housemade pimenta sauce on it as well, which you’ll find a bottle of on your table. All washed down with a cold chopp, of course.

Filé do Lira

Delicious, casual spot for steaks, very popular with locals at lunchtime. I recommend the namesake plate—a huge portion of steak, fried eggs, rice, beans, fries, farofa, sliced onions, and salad.

Cantinho do Leblon

A casual spot for food and drinks just off Rua Dias Ferreira, open since 1978. I recommend the ƒilé à parmegiana, hearty and delicious. This is a great spot for people watching on the crowded street outside from the comfortable terrace.

CT Boucherie

This upscale French restaurant serves some of the best steak in the city. They have an extensive menu of different cuts that your waiter will help guide you through; in addition, they offer a rodizio of unlimited, rotating side dishes to accompany your meat.

Sushi Leblon

This trendy sushi spot on Dias Ferreira is one of the city’s premier places to see and be seen, popular among Rio’s upper class as well as visiting celebrities. The cool, dark wood interior and quality sushi make for a memorable visit—make a reservation or be prepared to wait for a table.

Talho Capixaba

Opened in 1958, Talho Capixaba began as a butcher shop before expanding into an artisanal bakery and specialty delicatessen. It’s also a great spot for brunch; on the weekends, the sidewalk is full of tables of locals enjoying the late morning or early afternoon.

Boteco Princesa

With a privileged location a stone’s throw from Dias Ferreira, close to the action but in a more relaxed environment, this semi-circular bar is a classic boteco, a place to gather with friends to enjoy a chopp and some bar food.

The lovely blue-and-white tiled interior evokes the classic bars of Brazil as well as those of the old country.

Bibi Sucos

A local chain that opened in 1993 as a pioneer of fresh juices, refreshing açaí, and healthy food throughout the city. This is a great place to try traditional Brazilian açaí, without all the added sugar found elsewhere.

Café ao Leu

Originally in Copacabana, Café ao Leu has recently brought their coffee, arguably the city’s best, to Leblon. A must-visit to get your fix.

Degrau Restaurante

This white-tablecloth establishment opened in 1963 as “Progresso,” but it changed its name to “degrau” as a playful reference to the step outside its entrance that caused many patrons to lose their balance. It’s a classy spot with excellent service and traditional dishes from Brazilian and Portuguese cuisine.