A Guide to Chiloé, Chile: Nature, Folklore, Wooden Churches & Coastal Towns

The misty Chiloé archipelago, located just past the northern reaches of Chilean Patagonia, is one of the most unique places in all of Chile. Although only kilometers away from the mainland, the islands remained isolated for centuries, developing their own distinct culture, cuisine, architecture, and folklore.

The perennial fog that shrouds the island gives it a mystical feel, as does the colorful mythology of Chilote legends, from black-magic warlocks (brujos) to ghostly pirate ships (El Caleuche) and grotesque creatures (Invunche) and forest gnomes (Trauco).

Even today, Chiloé exists in relative isolation from the Chilean mainland, reachable only by ferry, although the main island now has an airport with once daily flights to Santiago. Read on for a guide to help you explore this magical island.

Castro

The archipelago consists of forty different islands, with the main Isla Grande nearly 120 miles (190 km) in length, so it isn’t possible to explore the whole area in just one trip.

The northern side of the big island is mostly dedicated to agriculture, while the southern side is wild and nearly uninhabited; for this reason, I recommend staying in the middle of the island, where you have easy access to all kinds of landscapes, especially the wonderful Parque Nacional Chiloé that covers the center-west of the island.

Castro, the island’s largest city, has a small, rustic feel, and its central location makes it a great place to stay during your time in Chiloé. The town has many traditional palafitos, picturesque houses built on wooden stilts extending out into the water, originally to allow fishermen to get into their boats quickly and easily as they began the day’s work.

For the full experience, I recommend staying in a palafito at the lovely Alma Chilota, a cozy hotel with a wonderful atmosphere and beautiful views of the water.

For dinner, enjoy local flavors at El Mercadito de Chiloé or Palafito Sabores de Mi Tierra, both with a great selection of fresh, local seafood. The latter is a good place to try curanto, the island’s most famous dish, which consists of a huge plate of seafood, potatoes, and sausages traditionally cooked using heated stones buried under the ground and covered with the giant leaves of the Chilean rhubarb, somewhat akin to a traditional New England clambake. 

Churches

The unique culture of Chiloé is the result of the collision of Spanish and indigenous cultures, blending together to create something altogether new.

Nowhere is this more evident than in the island’s architecture, especially its iconic wooden churches, built during the 18th and 19th centuries, when Jesuit missionaries set about evangelizing the area. Unlike the imposing stone cathedrals built by the Spanish colonists in other parts of the Americas, the churches in Chiloé are made entirely of wood from the island’s lush forests, with the shingles making them resistant to the cold, rainy climate.

The use of wood was typical of the craftsmanship of the Huilliche and Chono peoples, who constructed the churches under the direction of the Spanish, making them a prime example of a mestizo culture forged by old and new.

There are sixteen well-preserved wooden churches scattered across the big island and outer islands. Some particularly notable ones that you shouldn’t miss are the Iglesia de Nercón not far from Castro, Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Rosario in Chonchi, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores in Dalcahue, and Iglesia Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio in Tenaún.

Parque Nacional Chiloé

This national park covers a substantial portion of the island’s western side, featuring an eclectic mix of landscapes like sandy dunes, muddy bogs, and pristine Valdivian temperate rainforest.

There are plenty of hiking trails to explore, or you can opt for the wide, sandy expanse of Playa de Cucao, dipping your toes into the chilly waters of the South Pacific.

On your way to or from the park, be sure to stop at the idyllic Café del Bosque on the shores of beautiful Lago Huillinco for a bite of something delicious, savory or sweet.

Cascadas de Tocoihue

This breathtaking waterfall, which stands nearly 200 feet (60 m) tall, is located in the middle of a thick patch of Valdivian rainforest. Follow the trail down to the large pool formed by the waterfall; step out on the rocks close to the waterfall’s base, and breathe in the cool mist spraying out from the force of the crashing water. A truly magical experience.

Dalcahue

This town is home to one of the island’s famous wooden churches, as well as a Feria Artesanal (craft fair) and a number of cozy cafes and shops selling handmade goods, like DecoCalen.

For some delicious local food, try La Bahía de Doña Inés; I recommend her empanadas.

Quinchao

Dalcahue is also the entry point to Isla Quinchao, the third largest island in the archipelago, reachable via a short and free car ferry.

The outer islands of Chiloé have an even more traditional feel than the Isla Grande, and the pastoral beauty of Quinchao’s rolling hills makes it an excellent choice to explore. Start by checking out the town of Curaco de Vélez and its lovely main plaza, then continue on to the island’s main town, Achao. As you make your way down from the hills into the town, be sure to stop at the Mirador Alto la Paloma for some stunning views of the snow-capped Andes in the distance on Chile’s mainland.

Quinchao is also home to two of the island’s most beautiful wooden churches. Iglesia Santa María de Loreto can be found on the main square of Achao, while Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Gracia sits near the southeastern tip of the island on the banks of a large wetland preserve, the Humedal Bahía de Quinchao.

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