San Telmo, Buenos Aires Travel Guide: Cafes and Tango Shows in the City's Oldest Neighborhood

The oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires, San Telmo’s streets are filled with cafes, antique shops, and tango parlors, as well as an array of colonial buildings not seen in other parts of the capital. Its bohemian air remains today, and it is the premier destination for a more authentic tango experience.

What's in this article:

1. Cafes

2. Tango

Cafes

Café San Juan La Cantina

Excellent spot for a casual bite to eat from the kitchen of celebrated chef Lele Cristóbal. Enjoy updated takes on Argentine classics as well as very nice homemade vermouth.

La Poesía

During the 1980s, this cafe was a point of reference for San Telmo’s bohemian arts scene, serving as a meeting space for the poets known as the Generación de los 60 as well as filmmakers, musicians, and writers alike. Though it closed for a period during the 1990s, it reopened and retained its original ambience. Come to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy large servings of milanesas, sandwiches, and other classic Argentine fare.

Tango

Maldita Milonga

An off-the-beaten-path spot to enjoy a much more intimate tango experience than would be found at one of the large, tourist-oriented theaters downtown. The night begins with a class for beginners at 9pm, followed by a performance by the house orchestra and a show from two professional dancers before the floor opens up again for patrons to join in on the fun. A laid-back ambience makes this a great place to familiarize yourself with the city’s contemporary tango scene.

Looking for more tips on what to see and do around the city? Visit our Buenos Aires page here.